Rouen – Saturday, October 10, 2009

We took train from Caen to Rouen, the town where Joan of Arc was burned alive at the stake. The train was clean, quiet, fast and comfortable. Once in Rouen, we saw examples of the half timbered buildings that were smaller on the first level than the second level, because the buildings were taxed on their footprint not total square footage. Some of the buildings really lean, but they looked secure and are in good shape.

We visited the Eglise Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc Church), a really modern, Scandinavian wood and glass structure. The ceiling looked like a ship’s hull and the stained glass windows were salvaged from a bombed church. Thenk we went to the Joan of Arc Museum and learned how this 19 year old girl is credited for instilling loyalty and motivation to fight for France’s independence. Because she said she was inspired through voices of saints, she was burned at the stake as a heretic. The museum was in a creaky old building which definitely added to the ambiance.

On our way to lunch we stopped at a chocolate shop and bought dark chocolate candies and macaroons. They really are macaroons, in 20 different flavors, and good. The chocolate is really good. After lunch we went to the Big Clock for a tour of the inner workings. It ended with a nice view of the city from the top of the tower. By the way, the clock only has an hour hand because it was built in the 16th century and they didn’t keep track of time to the minute. On the end of the hour hand is a sheep, both because it is a port town exporting sheep’s wool but also religious as a reference to the good shepherd.

The Hall of Justice is a beautiful Gothic building on Rue Aux Juifs (Street of the Jews – 11th to 13th century Jewish quarter). Then we went to the massive Notre-Dame Cathedral that inspired 30 of Monet’s paintings. Jan couldn’t say the cathedral is beautiful, but it is definitely magnificent and intricate.

A bit about our religious adventures. We came to Caen thinking Jan might make some friends if we went to the Synagogue. We’ve visited a lot this weekend. Friday night services in Caen, Saturday morning services in Rouen just to see the Synagogue in Rouen, Saturday (Simcha Torah/Smini Atzeras) evening in Caen, and then again Sunday in Caen for a service & “community lunch”. Jan is upstairs with the other women and little children. The 2-year old daughter of the Rabbi kept saying “hi papa” because she could hear his voice while he was deep in prayer down below. Saturday, the women made room for Jan at the railing then continued their chatted though the service. Sunday was a different larger group that stayed for lunch. Chuck learned to wear a kippah and tallit, but he didn’t daven. We both learned how to religiously wash our hands before breaking bread. It seems most people under 40 speak some English. They seem very gracious and welcoming to us.